Caelaverock Castle and Wetlands - Galloway Bucket List
The wind and cold hit me full in the face as I stepped out of the car. It is winter at Caelaverock Castle and winter has certainly made its presence known to me.
The Journey
Leaving Dumfires past the Crichton the countryside quickly turns into typical South West Scotland, rolling agricultural land, dotted with single-story whitewash cottages, fields with sheep and cows, stone work boundaries all made by hand, with smatterings of trees and wonderful hills in the background.
This continues for around ten minutes before the wetlands start to appear, and both more trees and more birds can be seen.
The Wetlands
The wetlands are full of birds, which is a wonderful and heartwarming sight. Seeing so much nature, in one place and flying about, next to farmland and only a short drive from the town.
As we drove past you could see flocks of Geese, and other seabirds. Not being a twitcher I could not identify what the bird's species where currently there.
However, nevertheless, it was certainly a wonderful sight.
The Castle
Not long past the wetlands (they are right next to the castle) you take a turning down a small unassuming road and you are upon the castle.
The first inkling that you are entering something unique and a little different in the world of the castle is the small archway that you drive through that brings you to the castle, car park, visitor centre and what looks like a village green.
The Castle itself is imposing over the scenery, without feeling out of place. The ruins, sit in the landscape and are part of the landscape itself. Like a silent, sleeping monolithic giant in slumber awaiting the call to be awoken once more.
Castle History
Inside the Castle, which is a partial ruin you can see its history and the way it has transformed. It started out as a castle and seat of the Maxwells and later turned into a castle-come-Tudor mansion.
Its most notable historical event was the siege of 1300 when the forces of Edwards the 1st besieged Caeverlock castle and were held off by the mighty forces of the invading army of 60 men. Which is quite some feat of arms.
Looking at the castle today you can see why it was a fearsome prospect to besiege and take. Surrounded by a deep moat created in its construction it is a triangle-shaped
The Maxwells mounted a stout defence of the castle and later after the war had the castle returned to them. It went through a range of turbulent times during the wars of independence and was ultimately dismantled to stop it from falling into others' hands. This act was richly rewarded by Robert the Bruce.
During the period 14th and 15th centuries, it slowly became more mansion-like inside. This mansion can be seen in the addition of an inner house that had Greek-Roman-style carvings built into the internal walls.
Later on, the castle fell into disrepair before being taken on by Historic Scotland.
TV at the Castle
The castle has been a filming location for the time team with the bloke who played Baldrick Mr Tonny Robinson and lately The Decoy Bride which starred Doctor Who (sorry David Tennant).
The Bonus Castle
Caelaverock Castle really is the castle that keeps giving. After you have walked through what looks like ancient or near ancient forest you come across the original Caelaverock castle. Built to protect a small trading harbour, this castle only has left its foundations.
It has a very different scale and feel to the other castle. It is now wrapped up in trees and a small mound blocks its path to the sea.
However, in the past, this was very much an important post as the only way to move goods up and down the coast was by boat, so its place on the Solway Firth would have made it a very important trading post in the trade between Ireland, Scotland, Northern England and Wales.
The Woodlands
Around the castle and near the wetlands is a great walk to be had with a toddler. We walked around and had a picnic in the dell of an old tree stump. Which was lovely.
The trees are old and mossy and show the bumps of age and small swamps, ponds and mashes are not far from the path. It is a woodland walk with a nice easy path that meanders down to the coast.
Mushrooms, birds, and insects can all be seen in abundance. Walking with a toddler was great, as there is so much for them to see on the floor, near the path and in the trees.
The Gift Shop
Run by Historic Scotland, the small gift shop has a selection of local history goods and general Scottish goods for all the family (of course) and also retails a nice coffee as well for those who need their caffeine fix.
Final Thoughts
This is a superb castle, that allows you the freedom to enjoy it without the hype and over-the-topness that many castles present themselves as.
It has a genuine history in the long-running wars between the Scottish and English crowns and its earlier history combined with its setting makes this one of the most impressive castles in Scotland.
Getting to Caelaverock Castle
Caelaverock Castle is situated around 15 minutes outside of Dumfries.
Head to the Crichton roundabout and follow the signs to Caelaverock Castle, follow the B725 until you pass through Bankend and you will come across the wetlands to your left.
Keep going until you see a small sign on the left for the castle.
Follow that sign.
Further Reading
Wikipedia as ever is a great resource.
There are a number of books available including:
The Siege of Caerlaverock by Barbara Henderson - Available on Amazon is a historical fiction retelling of the
If you are interested in the Wars of Independence then Chris Brown's Scottish Wars of Independence is a great place to start.
Lastly if are interested in finding out more about Edward 1st's invasion of Scotland and reign as King Marc Morris's book is the book for the job.